I try to post facts, skills to learn, needed supplies. I look for cheap and free prepping ideas.
Survival, Prepper, Bushcraft, homesteading, SHTF, Emergency preparedness
The majority of those that find this article via some internet search engine are either trying to avoid paying income tax, or seeking a second passport as a plan “B” to bugging out
The
majority of those that find this article via some internet search
engine are either trying to avoid paying income tax, or seeking a second
passport as a plan “B” to bugging out - See more at:
http://wolfeblog.net/dual_citizenship.html#sthash.tF36Rz0h.dpuf
The
majority of those that find this article via some internet search
engine are either trying to avoid paying income tax, or seeking a second
passport as a plan “B” to bugging out - See more at:
http://wolfeblog.net/dual_citizenship.html#sthash.tF36Rz0h.dpuf
ORANGE Dye - Alder (Alnus rubra) (Bark)- orange - Barberry (mahonia sp.) yellow orange (with alum)
very strong & permanent. Any part of the plant will work. - Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) (root when
cut open)- will give a good orange to reddish orange color. - Butternut Tree (Juglans cinerea) – (bark, seed
husks) – light yelllow-orange - Carrot (Daucus carota) – (roots) – orange - Eucalyptus – (all parts, leaves and bark) beautiful
shades of tan, deep rust red, yellow, green, orange and chocolate brown. - Giant Coreopsis (Coreopsis gigantea) Yields
bright permanent orange with alum. - Lichen (orchella weed) (Roccellaceae) –
gold, purple, red - Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) (twigs) – yellow/orange - Onion (Allium cepa) (skin) – orange - Pomegranate (skins)– with alum anywhere from orange to
khaki green. - Sassafras (leaves) - Turmeric (Curcuma longa) dyed cloth will turn
orange or red if it is dipped in lye.
BROWN Dye - Acorns (boiled) - Amur
Maple (Acer Ginnala)
– black, blue, brown from dried leaves. - Beetroot -Dark Brown
with FeSO4 - Birch (bark) – Light brown/
buff – Alum to set - Broom
-
(bark) – yellow/brown - Broom Sedge – golden
yellow and brown –
Butternut Tree (Juglans cinerea) - (bark) -dark brown – boil the bark down to
concentrated form - Coffee Grinds - Colorado Fir -
(bark) – tan - Coneflower (flowers)
– brownish green ; leaves and stems – gold -
Dandelion (roots) brown - Fennel
– (flowers,
leaves) – yellow/brown - Goldenrod (shoots ) –
deep brown -
Hollyhock (petals) - Ivy - (twigs) – yellow/brown - Juniper Berries - Maple Trees (Red Leaf
Buds) – red-brown color when dried. Found on branches before new leaves appear
only present during early spring and throughout fall. - Oak bark will give a
tan or oak color. - Oregano – (Dried
stalk) – Deep brown- Black - Pine Tree Bark –
light medium brown. Needs no mordant. - St John’s Wort
(blossom) – brown - Sumac (leaves) – tan - Tea Bags – light
brown, tan - Walnut (hulls) – deep
brown (wear gloves) - Walnut (husks) – deep
brown – black - White
Birch - (inner bark) – brown - White Maple (bark) –
Light brown/ buff – Alum to set - Wild plum root will
give a reddish or rusty brown. - Yellow dock (shades
of brown) PINK Dye - Strawberries - Avocado from skin and
seed – a light pink hue. - Cherries - Raspberries (red) - Roses and Lavender,
with a little mint and some lemon juice to activate the alkaloids can make both
a brilliant pink dye and a very tasty pink lemonade. - Lichens – A pink,
brown, or wine colored dye can be produced from a lichen known as British
soldiers. -
Camilla -It’s a
nice pink-magenta. With lemon and salt. - Grand Fir -(bark) pink BLUE- PURPLE Dye - Dogwood (bark) – blue - Red cabbage - Woad (first year leaves).
Woad gives a pale to mid blue colour depending on the type of fabric and the
amount of woad used. - Mulberries (royal
purple) - Elderberries
(lavender) -
Saffron - (petals) blue/green - Grapes (purple) - Blueberries -
Cornflower - (petals) blue dye with alum, water - Cherry (roots) - Blackberry (fruit)
strong purple -
Hyacinth – (flowers) – blue - Japanese indigo (deep
blue) - Indigo (leaves) –
blue - Red Cedar Root
(purple) -
Raspberry -(fruit) purple/blue - Red Maple Tree (purple)(inner
bark) - Nearly
Black Iris – (dark bluish purple) alum mordant -
Dogwood - (fruit) greenish-blue - Oregon
Grape -(fruit) blue/purple - Purple Iris - blue - Sweetgum (bark) –
purple / black RED – BROWN Dye- Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis)
(root) – red - Elderberry – red - Whole (or the peel of) pomegranates
– Between purple-red to pink from fresh pomegranates, and a brown color from
very overripe (beginning to rot) pomegranates. - Red leaves will give
a reddish brown color I use salt to set the dye. - Sumac (fruit) –
light red - Sycamore (bark)- red - Dandelion (root) - Beets – deep red - Bamboo – turkey red - Crab
Apple - (bark) – red/yellow - Rose (hips) - Chokecherries - Madder (root) – red - Hibiscus Flowers (dried) - Kool-aid - Canadian Hemlock –
(bark) reddish brown -
Japanese Yew - (heartwood) – brown dye - Wild ripe Blackberries -
Brazilwood - St.
John’s Wort – (whole plant) soaked in alcohol – red - Bedstraw (Galium triflorum) (root)
– red GRAY-BLACK Dye -Iris (roots) - Sumac (leaves)
(Black) – Meadowsweet makes an amazing black dye. - Blackberry -
Butternut Hulls - Carob pod (boiled)
will give a gray to cotton - Oak galls - makes a good black dye. - Sawthorn Oak - (seed
cups) – black - Walnut (hull) – black - Rusty nails &
vinegar – set with Alum RED – PURPLE Dye - Pokeweed (berries) - Hibiscus (flowers,
dark red or purple ones) – red-purple. - Daylilies (old
blooms) -
Safflower – (flowers, soaked in alcohol) – red - Logwood (is a good
purple but you have to watch it as it dyes quick when the pot is fresh. Also it
exhausts fast. We use alum to mordant and using iron can give you logwood
gray.) - Huckleberry -
lavender (can use it for dye and also for ink.) - Portulaca – (flowers,
dried and crushed to a powder) use with a vinegar orsalt mordant, can produce
strong magentas, reds, scarlets, oranges and
yellows (depending upon the color of the flower) - Beluga Black Lentils -
soaked in water overnight .. yield a dark purplish / black water. The color is
washfast and lightfast and needs NO MORDANT and it lasts – a beautiful milk
chocolate brown (when super thick) … to a lighter medium brown or light brown
when watered down. - Dark Hollyhock
(petals) – mauve - Basil – purplish
grey GREEN Dye - Artemisia species
provide a range of greens from baby’s breath to nettle green. -
Artichokes - Tea
Tree
– (flowers) green/black - Spinach (leaves) - Sorrel
(roots)
– dark green -
Foxglove - (flowers) apple green - Lilac
-
(flowers) – green -
Camellia - (pink, red petals) – green -
Snapdragon - (flowers) – green - Black-Eyed Susans - Grass (yellow green) -
Pigsweed (entire plant) yellow green - Red
Pine (needles)
green - Nettle - Broom – (stem) green -
Larkspur - green – alum - Plantain Roots - White
Ash -
(bark) – yellow - Purple
Milkweed - (flowers & leaves) – green - Lily-of-the-valley
(light green) be careful what you do with the spent dye bath. The plant is
toxic so try to avoid pouring it down the drain into the water supply. - Barberry root (wool
was dyed a greenish bronze-gold) - Red onion (skin) (a
medium green, lighter than
forest green) - Yarrow
-
(flowers) yellow & green shades - Mulga
Acacia - (seed pods) – green - Peach - (leaves) yellow/green -
Coneflower (flowers) – green - Peppermint - dark
kakhi green color - Peony (flowers) - pale lime green - Queen Anne’s Lace –
pale green - Black-Eyed Susans -
bright olive/apple green - Hydrangea (flowers) –
alum mordant, added some copper and it came out a beautiful celery green - Chamomile (leaves) –
green YELLOW-WHEAT DYE -
Alfalfa (seeds) – yellow - Bay leaves – yellow - Barberry (bark) –
yellow - Beetroot (yellow)
(alum & K2Cr2O7) - Burdock - Cameleon plant
(golden) - Celery (leaves) - Crocus – yellow - Daffodil (flower
heads after they have died); alum mordant - Dahlia Flowers (Red, yellow, orange flowers) make a
lovely yellow to orange dye for wool. - Dandelion (flower) - Dyer’s Greenwood (shoots)
– yellow - Fustic – yellow - Golden Rod (flowers) -
Heather – (plant) – yellow - Hickory leaves
(yellow) if plenty of leaves are boiled and salt added. - Marigold (blossoms) –
yellow - Mimosa – (flowers) yellow - Mulga Acacia -(flowers) – yellow - Mullein (leaf and
root) pale yellow. *careful, because the little fuzzy hairs can make one itchy! -
Mullein (verbascum
thapsus) (flowers) bright yellow or light green. - Old man’s beard lichen – yellow/brown/orange
shades - Onion (skins) – set with Alum. - Oregon-grape roots -
yellow - Osage Orange also
known as Bois d’arc or hedgeapple (heartwood, inner bark, wood, shavings or
sawdust) (pale yellow) - Oxallis (wood sorrels) (flowers)
– the one with the yellow flowers. Use the flower heads, some stem ok. It is
nearly fluorescent yellow, and quite colorfast on alum mordanted wool. If the oxalis
flowers are fermented or if a small dash of cloudy ammonia is added to the dye
bath (made alkaline) the fluorescent yellow becomes fluorescent orange. Usually
I do this as an after-bath, once I have the initial colour. Useful for shifting
the dye shade, and some good surprises in store! - Queen Anne’s Lace - Paprika -pale yellow
– light orange - Peach (leaves) –
yellow -Red Clover (whole
blossom, leaves and stem) alum mordant – gold - Saffron (stigmas) –
yellow – set with Alum. - Safflower (flowers,
soaked in water) – yellow - Sassafras (bark)-
yellow - St. John’s Wort -
(flowers & leaves) – gold/yellow - Sumac (bark) – The inner pith of Sumac branches can
produce a super bright yellow color. -
Sunflowers – (flowers) – yellow - Syrian
Rue (glows
under black light) - Tansy (tops) – yellow - Tea ( ecru color) - Turmeric (spice)
–bright yellow - Weld (bright yellow) - White mulberry tree
(bark) Cream color onto white or off-white wool. Alum mordant. - Willow (leaves) - Yarrow – yellow and
gold - Yellow cone flower
(whole flower head); chrome mordant; Brass to Greeney-Brass. - Yellow, Curly, Bitter, or Butter
Dock (despite various leaf shapes, all have a bright yellow
taproot) gives you a yellow/flesh color.
You can find some others HERE at the bottom of every page list other uses for the herbs including any dyes they can make
You first cut the plant into small pieces. Once chopped measure out how much you have and put double that in water into a pan........ So 1 cup of chopped berries means 2 cups of water. Boil this and let simmer for one hour. Strain off the chunky bits and now you have your dye!!! The suggestion is to leave the mixture in the pan overnight (no heat needed for the overnight part, just move it were your cats can not get into it! Trust me I found out the hard way! ) before staining to get a stronger dye. NO you do not just put your item in the dye! You first must "fix" the fabric. Salt for berry dye.1/2 cup salt for 8 cups water (do a little math for the more or less depending on what you are dying). Place your fabric in and boil for one hour. Vinegar for plant dye. 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water. Same as above boil for one hour. When your fabric is done, rinse it out under cold water. And NOW you are ready to dye. Place your wet fabric into the dye bath at a simmer until it looks like it is the color you want. (always let it stay a bit longer because it will dry lighter than what you see! .Wash the fabric separately and you are all set. I personally would wash it separately for a few washes or by hand. Better safe than sorry!
Yes it is spring and it is that time of year to keep an eye out for the young pine cones popping out.
Remember their are 100's of variety's around the world. They all look a little different but all are part of the same family and have mostly the same uses and growth patterns.
So you are now asking why does it matter.....well... PINE POLLEN!! They start showing at the end of April the and though out May. It is a once a year thing.
Most people know about the female seed-bearing pine cones. But did you know about the yellow (sometimes, redish, green or brown depending on the species) male pollen bearing cones?? They are small and are often over looked because of this.
And yes you can add them to you dishes they are tasty and delicious. But more important is their medical use.
Harvest these bad boys and separate them from the rest of the tip...having a bowl of what looks like strange berry's.
Tincture
Fill a quart glass jar with these pollen berry's.
Then pour vodka (or any other booze, but vodka is preferred some people do a mix of water and vodka ) to the top
Shake that jar up........ and in a month strain out the cones and what you have left is the extract! Or you can save the berry in a zip lock and make the Tincture at another time.
Powder
Place the pine berry's in a bag and shake and shake and you will have 100% pine pollen at the bottom of the bag. Place a a cookie sheet so it drys out and bottle or bag it. This can be added to teas and oil and alcohol mixes, depending on what you plan on using it for.
You can dehydrate the Tincture the same way you would any other extract. Boil it down and then spread the thick paste in a dehydrator. Or spread out on cookie sheets and sun dehydrate. Although this method may reduce the effectiveness of the pollen.
This is the best way to have a concentrated and preserved product form this plant for use all year long.
Pine extract is antimicrobial, antiseptic, antifungal, anti-neuralgic, and anti-rheumatic properties.
It is a good decongestant and expectorant for respiratory
ailments. It is a natural anti inflammatory which helps relive pain.
